While the gameplay is very enjoyable, being a more balanced take on 4 alongside the introduction of demons having stats that make moves better/worse depending on whether they're compatible (AKA don't give the ice demon fire skills ya dingus) which I have mixed feelings on. On one hand, it makes demons more unique but skills as a whole got more expensive to compensate. The minimap also isn't terrible anymore, so yay!
But the main reason you'll see people criticize this game is the story, and I have to agree. Without acknowledging the very concept of making a direct sequel to a game built on multiple endings, the new take just isn't great. It feels like it tries to combine the gritty darkness of SMT with the Shounen-esque power of friendship of Persona. All of the characters not from the original feel like stock shounen character templates with not much to add to them. (also this game has a love triangle. WHY!?) The game also misses out on the multiple choices the series is built around even if options like teaming up with the divine powers would have been a great decision, because the ending choices feel token and boil down to 'Be a dick' or 'Don't be a dick'
So while I enjoyed it, it's the worst of the mainline SMT games I played.

(I do feel the need to mention this is from someone who gave up after the 6th gym)

Awful experience. Even ignoring all the controversy from before the game released (getting rid of half the roster to 'focus on animations' and then releasing a paid companion piece with all the Pokémon in it could solve world hunger using the water filtered from the piss that was taking) the game is terrible. The one piece of praise I'll give is that a lot of the new Pokémon look good, just like every other Pokémon game (minus the starters and box legendries). Now for the bad things.
The map design is terrible. Nothing but straight lines with one bland open world area with barely anything to do in it.
I hated Hop. Easily one of the worst rivals in the series who worships your existence for knowing basic mechanics like type advantages. I did like Bede somewhat as I actually felt compelled to fight him, however.
The combat is way too easy. Forced EXP share makes it so you easily overlevel every pokemon and trainer in the area where one shotting gym leaders becomes easy. There's also dynamax, where you make your pokemon big. The only strategy regarding it is to go big when your opponent does. It's just the admittedly unbalanced Mega Evolution from gen 6 but worse in every aspect.
Overall, there's nothing here you couldn't get in any other Pokémon game, play any other one. Getting one star instead of half because the quality of this game got me to play SMT which is an infinitely better series