I like Metroid Dread quite a bit. The gameplay is (for the most part) fast and fluid and though I don't actually think it is much of a metroidvania, what is here stands on its own as a really fun game with some interesting stuff in it.

Metroid Dread feels great to play. Once you unlock all of Samus' abilities, it is really fun to switch up tactics, dash around the room, and blast your enemies to pieces with missiles and blaster fire. Enemies (especially late-game) have a ton of really powerful, fast attacks but Samus is agile enough that avoiding them is possible and feels like an accomplishment once you get it down.
There are a couple strange missteps in control that can make things feel bad though. Specifically the Shinespark ability feels atrocious to use and unresponsive, since it works based on Samus' current jump state (spinning or not), which is a holdover from past games that should have been left behind.

I don't think Dread is very good at being a metroidvania, mostly because it is astoundingly linear. This game has the most aggressive use of gating I have ever seen. Every time you go anywhere, you are locked into getting your next upgrade and using it to progress forward. It is impossible to get lost, but you cannot really explore at all.
The map and levels are still circuitous and expansive, so I constantly felt the need to navigate with unsatisfying results, since there is only ever one path forwards (sometimes through a wall you need to randomly shoot, yuck).
Even traveling back to discover more items is tedious because there is no reasonable way to fast travel. This is an astounding decision that, for me, removed any motivation I would have had to fill out the map by the end of the game.
I think I would have preferred a more obviously linear game that didn't even pretend to have a metroidvania structure.

EMMI's are also hit or miss for me. A few of them feel very cool as a fast traversal and avoidance mechanic... the places where you are just running through a new environment trying to find an exit without getting caught are very fun. Others have abilities that stop or slow you which just feels bad and pointless. I definitely like what the EMMI's bring to the game overall though and the switchup in gameplay is cool.

I found the story to be incoherent at best. Nothing about this leg of the Metroid story is interesting at all. The X are dumb.

I did have a lot of fun overall with Metroid Dread, and if I don't judge it as a metroidvania, I definitely liked it a lot. Go in expecting cool action along with fun, challenging boss fights and you won't be disappointed.